Of all the artificial lures used
for walleyes, jigging lures may be the most underrated. Although commonly used on
reservoirs and big rivers, these lures are seldom seen on natural lakes.
Unlike most jigs, jigging lures have built-in action. A vibrating
blade wiggles rapidly; a tailspin has a spinner blade on the rear that rotates as the lure
moves forward and as it sinks; a jigging spoon rocks when pulled upward and tunbles
erratically when it settles toward bottom.
These lures usually work best when jigged vertically.
Walleyes strike a jigging lure as it sinks, much the same way they strike a jig, so a taut
line is crucial if you are to detect a strike. You can also troll or cast with jigging
lures. Make long, fast sweeps with your rod tip, then let the lure settle back.
Vibrating blades are often more effective than jigs in
murky water. Walleyes detect the wiggle with their lateral-line sense even if they cannot
see the lure. Because vibrating blades sink rapidly, they work well indeep water or swift
current. These qualities make them perfectly suited to the swift, murky water of most
rivers.
Attach a vibrating blade with a
plain, round-nosed snap inserted through one of the line-attachment holes on the back. You
can change the amount of wiggle by attaching the snap in different holes. The rear hole
produces the widest wiggle; the front hole, the narrowest.
Tailspins work best in water that is relatively clear. The added flash and
vibration of the spinner blade may trigger a walleye that is not interested in a jig. Tie
a tailspin directly to your line.
Jigging spoons will take walleyes when jigged vertically in
flooded timber. They can also be used for walleyes suspended in open water. Attach a
jigging spoon to your line with a split-ring.
You can use the same tackle when fishing with jigging lures
as you would when fishing with jigs. But many anglers prefer a slightly longer and stiffer
rod, such as a 6 foot bait-casting rod, and a heavier line, usually 8 to 10 pound mono.
